Polnische Ostsee: Bummel mit Hund durch Kolberg (Kolobrzeg)
Das größte und bekannteste Kurbad an der polnischen Ostsee ist Kolberg. Schon 1803 startetet hier der Kurbetrieb. Bis heute zieht er viele Menschen aus ganz Europa an, darunter etliche Deutsche, die hier sogar Eigentumswohnungen haben. Anders als für eine Kurstadt vielleicht erwartbar, haben wir die Atmosphäre nicht als müde-kränklich, sondern quirlig-lebendig erlebt. Insbesondere im Hafengebiet an der Mündung der Persante geht`s hoch her. Mit Partyschiffen und Livemusik. Kolberg überzeugt Kur- und Wellnessgäste mit besonders guter, jodhaltigen Luft, feinem Sandstrand, heilenden Solequellen und Mooren. Bei uns und unserem Hund hat die Stadt mit ihrem großen naturbelassenen Hundestrand und ihren vielen Parks und Grünanlagen gepunktet. Zwischen liebevoll angelegten Rabatten und chillig-wilden Wald- und Wiesenflächen sind auch viele Vierbeiner unterwegs.
Wir starten unseren Bummel mit Hund auf dem großen bewachten Parkplatz Meteo (Kamienna 1b) am Rand der Altstadt. Hier lässt sich auch ein WoMo problemlos parken. Wir bleiben auf unserer Flussseite und überqueren die Straße. Am grünen Ufer der Persante kann unser Amos erst mal das Bein heben. Bei nächster Gelegenheit biegen wir rechts ab in die Altstadt. Über die Straße Gierczak laufen wir vorbei an einem Militärmuseum und dem Haus der Kaufmannsfamilien Schlieffen. Das gotische Giebelhaus in rotem Backstein ist das einzige Handelshaus, das aus Kolbergs Hansezeit (um 1500) erhalten geblieben ist. An der nächsten Kreuzung biegen wir links ab auf Mariacka. Sie bringt uns vorbei am mächtigen gotischen Mariendom. Wir laufen drumherum, biegen rechts ab auf Katedralna und wieder links auf Armii Krajowej. An der Straße liegt das Braunschweiger Haus. Die stuckverzierte, rosa Residenz im Empirestil hatte einst ein reicher Kaufmann für seine Tochter bauen lassen.
Auf der Armii Krajowej laufen wir immer geradeaus durch die Altstadt und hinein in einen der vielen Stadtparks. Über Zwycięzców und Solna gelangen wir in den nächsten Park und wenig später in den nächsten. Hier halten wir uns leicht links und erreichen kurz darauf den Leuchtturm von Kolberg an der Mole neben dem Strand. Da sich die Saison zu Ende neigt, sind einige Leute mit Vierbeiner am Strand unterwegs. Der eigentliche Hundestrand (der Große im Westen der Stadt) liegt Richtung Grzybowo auf Höhe des Wohnkomplexes Baltic Plaza. Von der Mole könnten wir durch den Yachthafen und weiter durch den Strandpark hinüberlaufen (rund 3 km). Das sparen wir uns heute. Wir schlendern durch den Hafen, wo die Partyboote mit Rambazamba an uns vorüberziehen – und nehmen dann denselben Weg zurück.
Unterwegs haben wir uns noch in der Konditorei & Bäckerei Mielnik (Armii Krajowej 20c/6) eingedeckt mit unfassbar guten Kuchen und Törtchen. Auch Amos hat’s geliebt.
- check Sommer/Herbst
- check Winter/Frühling
- check Einkehr möglich
- check bezahltes Parken am Startplatz
- error_outline (Überwiegend) Leinenpflicht
Unterwegs durch die Stadtparks von Kolberg.
Links das Haus der Kaufmannsfamilien Schlieffen, das einzige Handelshaus, das aus Kolbergs Hansezeit erhalten geblieben ist.
Nette Cafés locken in Kolberg an jeder Ecke.
Das neugotische Rathaus erinnert mit seinen Türmen an eine Burg.
Der Pusteblumenspringbrunnen an Platz des 18. März.
Eine viele hundert Jahre alte Buche im Stadtpark.
Die Mole im Hafen.
Der Leuchtturm ist leider eingerüstet.
Im Hafen von Kolberg ist ordentlich Trubel.
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