Polnische Ostsee: Steilküstenwanderung von Orzechowo (Freichow) nach Ustka (Stolpemünde)
Auf unserer Reise mit Hund und Wohnmobil entlang der polnischen Ostsee wollten wir eigentlich auf dem Campingplatz „Kryjówka Orzechowo Morskie 27“ (Orzechowo 1, 76-270 Ustka) übernachten. Leider endet die Saison auf dem wunderschön im Wald gelegenen und sehr hundefreundlichen Platz bereits am 1. September. Dennoch hat es sich für uns gelohnt, in den winzigen Ort Orzechowo zu fahren. Denn dort starteten wir zu einer traumhaften Wanderung an der Steilküste ins traditionsreiche Seebad Ustka. Für uns bislang die schönste Tour mit Hund an der polnischen Ostsee.
Los geht`s in direkter Nachbarschaft des Campingplatzes auf dem großen Wanderparkplatz an der Zufahrt nach Orzechowo. Dort lässt sich auch ein WoMo problemlos parken. Gefühlt sind wir hier schon mitten im Nirgendwo. Vom Parkplatz halten wir uns Richtung Ortsausgang und wechseln auf den breiten Forstweg, der links von der Zufahrtstraße abzweigt. Nach einigen Metern geradeaus biegen wir rechts ab Richtung Meer – und finden uns wenig später am Aussichtspunkt auf dem Steilufer. Der Ausblick ist wunderschön-dramatisch. Das Ufer fällt steil ab. Auf dem schmalen Sandstrand liegen uralte Baumstämme, die Sturmfluten freigelegt haben. Dazwischen sind einige wenige Menschen unterwegs, die meisten mit Hund. Wir halten uns links und folgen dem schmalen Pfad in sanftem Auf und Ab entlang der Steilküste. An diesem Blick können wir uns gar nicht sattsehen.
Richtung Ustka wird der Strand breiter, und auch das Steilufer fällt ab. Im Strandwald vor Ustka sind wir dann auf Meereshöhe. Hier beginnen auch die breiten Badestrände, die in der Hauptsaison für Hunde gesperrt sind. Wir laufen an den Stränden vorbei durch den Wald.
Der Wald lichtet sich. Wir halten uns rechts und stoßen auf eine geteerten Fußgängerweg. Er bringt uns vorbei an Strandbuden und Ferienanlagen und schließlich auf die schöne Promenade, die von Cafés, Kneipen und einigen historischen Fassaden gesäumt wird. Man merkt bald: Im zweiten Weltkrieg ist Ustka weniger zerstört worden als die meisten Orte an der polnischen Ostsee. Wir erreichen den stimmungsvollen Hafen. Hier mündet die Stolpe ins Meer. Am frisch renovierten Hafenkai lässt es sich wunderbar aushalten. Vor uns die die eleganten Drehbrücke, Fischkutter und Jachten, hinter uns der historische Leuchtturm.
Wir laufen an der Stolpe entlang in die Innenstadt – und finden uns bald wieder im Kapitänswinkel. Hier standen die Ruhesitze vieler Kapitäne und Seeleute. Manche der Fachwerkbauten blieben erhalten, andere wurden im gleichen Stil neu errichtet. Wir laufen kreuz und quer durch die Gassen und machen schließlich Pause auf der kleinen Terrasse des „Mistral Cafe“ (Kaszubska 9) mit seiner liebevoll bemalten Fassade. Die hausgemachten Kuchen, Pralinen und mehr sind unfassbar lecker.
Wir schlendern zurück über die Strandpromenade und vorbei an den Badestränden. Dahinter biegen wir nicht ab auf den uns vom Hinweg bekannten Pfad, sondern halten uns geradeaus auf dem offiziellen Wanderweg mit der weiß-rot-weißen Markierung. Diesem folgen wir zurück zum Wanderparkplatz. Wir hängen noch einen kurzen Schlenker durch Orzechowo an. Einige Ferienhäuser, eine modernes Wellnessresort, ein Leuchtturm. Wir folgen dem Laufe des Bachs Orzechowo hinunter zum Meer und zum wilden Strand. Traumhaft schön. Hier bleiben wir nochmal hocken, würden am liebsten einfach hierbleiben. Dann geht`s doch zurück zum Parkplatz.
- check Sommer/Herbst
- check Winter/Frühling
- check Einkehr möglich
- check kostenlose Parkplätze
Unfassbar schön: der Pfad an der Steilküste.
Ausgangspunkt unserer Tour: der große Wanderparkplatz am Eingang von Freichow.
Der Hafen mit der neuen Drehbrücke.
Der Leuchtturm von Ustka.
Am Eingang zum Kapitänswinkel. Viele Häuser sind im Fachwerkstil neu erbaut.
So lecker, dass man dafür auch Schlange steht: vor dem Eingang zum Mistral Café.
Zurück auf dem breiten Wanderweg mit der Markierung.
Der Leuchtturm von Freichow.
Der Orzechowo fließt hinab in die Ostsee.
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